捷克昆特拉霍拉——埋藏40000个头骨的人骨教堂
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<DIV id=blogDetailDiv style="FONT-SIZE: 16px"> 这听起来不像是个曼妙的故事，标题也显得哗众取宠。我承认，但故事本身足够凝重，逝者的灵魂，最初为基督教的圣迹而来，渴望的是安宁与永生，他们生前未曾想过，自己的骨骼得以在一个天马行空的建筑师手里成为不朽的艺术品，尽管，这件艺术品本身，覆盖着太多太多或脆弱、或悲悯的灵魂。 <BR> 今天要介绍的这座人骨教堂，位于捷克的昆特拉·霍拉（Kutna Hora）小城。 <BR> 有关人骨教堂的故事，之前也曾经在网络上有所耳闻。真有机会去的时候，心里还是不免有些发怵。捷克旅游局为我们安排的导游思佳在去的车上就开始给我们讲故事，大意是，13世纪当地有位传教士身赴耶路撒冷，从耶酥捧回一袋圣土，安洒在昆特拉·霍拉的Sedlec地区修道院周围墓地上。圣土的力量是无穷的，而且被奉为神迹，因此，周边贵族乡绅将这里视作福地甚至通天的阶梯，死后纷纷选择这里作为安葬地。于是，当地成了风水宝地，墓地规模越来越大。 <BR> 14世纪的黑死病，15世纪爆发的约翰·胡斯宗教战争，使得波西米亚大地生灵涂炭。如何安抚亡灵？虔诚的传教士选择了将他们带到昆特拉·霍拉的圣土安葬，毕竟这里是圣土。至于埋藏了多少亡灵？ 40000人。 <BR> 后来的后来，富有的Schwarzenberg家族将这片地皮和教堂买下，并突发奇想地聘请木匠RINT来装饰教堂。木匠对于几何图形有着职业的天赋，这里最不缺的就是人骨，RINT于是想到了用骨骼来装饰教堂。于是，有了这座名叫Kostelík Vech savtych a kostnicí的人骨教堂。 <BR> 从布拉格市区到昆特拉霍拉只需要大约一个小时车程，不要以为这座小城只有这处凄幽的冷教堂，其实小城本身也是世界文化遗产，而且镇上小作坊里自酿的黑啤，不知道要比捷克最有名的皮尔森老泉好喝多少倍：） 另外，和人骨教堂一墙之隔的圣芭芭拉教堂，我一直固执地以为，那是哥特教堂最华丽、并且无法逾越的超凡之作，如同小夜曲之于肖邦。<BR>
<CENTER><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105ac866a819408da4fe0bd3d246f11ad6eb53f5b86474177d6b46fa1eb0c242869b4028b5b1b04058c1da8d22a49f961ca68c1b716a2dbbcc3463d0c76ece30fc8b04e1a72" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105ac866a819408da4fe0bd3d246f11ad6eb53f5b86474177d6b46fa1eb0c242869b4028b5b1b04058c1da8d22a49f961ca68c1b716a2dbbcc3463d0c76ece30fc8b04e1a72" width=601></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>一开始，气氛还是很可乐的，人骨教堂旁边，一家酒店的门庭居然是这样的。。。。。。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c10556b9341716f1243ad9cbc9fdcafd76152e30bb74e3407b910c1704ceca35830552c8844fd665c13c2185e150fd7411e0af3a07f5d25ee2dbedf8662c149f92ef583cfd50" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c10556b9341716f1243ad9cbc9fdcafd76152e30bb74e3407b910c1704ceca35830552c8844fd665c13c2185e150fd7411e0af3a07f5d25ee2dbedf8662c149f92ef583cfd50" width=539></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>这是人骨教堂的外观，肃穆而又不失富贵的墓碑昭示着此地的神圣。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105f9070f4f75be75faa1ad96e38b7bd11cfdb6438aaaec138b1fe950ffed5681452eef6572ac19dbc18a134544ad1577f0910ccacd3ed62397c3e1d4e077b4b04e6566ac2e" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105f9070f4f75be75faa1ad96e38b7bd11cfdb6438aaaec138b1fe950ffed5681452eef6572ac19dbc18a134544ad1577f0910ccacd3ed62397c3e1d4e077b4b04e6566ac2e" width=539></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>进入人骨教堂前，这个红衣少女让我想起了辛德勒的名单。她是我目尽枯朽之前的一点温存吧。</CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105073046c2f16c9f8fce9f5298c09f8f83ae77c9621a2bc0926b31b91e52f3a8375329a5c6109fc529b417b5c64f850fe9ee25e0f58b7631cebeb6f0a2bb0b5b0185258c00" target=_blank><IMG height=428 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105073046c2f16c9f8fce9f5298c09f8f83ae77c9621a2bc0926b31b91e52f3a8375329a5c6109fc529b417b5c64f850fe9ee25e0f58b7631cebeb6f0a2bb0b5b0185258c00" width=670></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>接下来，教堂的入口处就呈现在我面前，头骨像挂坠一样，变成立柱，成为图腾的印痕。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105ee375582dadefd6d03d54ebd7fce8588a93a0eef99d894495d9ea1c9c8056f15abf0c2f3559c590b1d98bdaa4e9c15c98d9864fceb08c47a5a581af3bfc14174bad53e2f" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105ee375582dadefd6d03d54ebd7fce8588a93a0eef99d894495d9ea1c9c8056f15abf0c2f3559c590b1d98bdaa4e9c15c98d9864fceb08c47a5a581af3bfc14174bad53e2f" width=528></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>接下来，这是什么？设计师RINT精心设计的Schwarzenberg家族的族徽！<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1052d28cd5237b1210fcd739dbf6b22e1b8d64dfe7a45dd20c9a40e9a823af61af259020757b4e59df05de5ab2c4e2e8dab862b5eb1fa530760072f416a42be0ecca75bba03" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1052d28cd5237b1210fcd739dbf6b22e1b8d64dfe7a45dd20c9a40e9a823af61af259020757b4e59df05de5ab2c4e2e8dab862b5eb1fa530760072f416a42be0ecca75bba03" width=539></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>死于黑死病和胡斯战争的上万具骸骨，就安放在教堂两侧。许多小孩子在这里拍照合影，在西方人的宗教信仰里，骸骨并不绝然是惧然，更意味着对生的尊重。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105efe0c1b523e116018a81393348c298e94da8f08d12ccb7f52320d2f7f94cf834350abf6864ed6e3d17f81ef401520543ebd31eed9fa0560eed65ce3c7d4b0c1e241d7f29" target=_blank><IMG height=437 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105efe0c1b523e116018a81393348c298e94da8f08d12ccb7f52320d2f7f94cf834350abf6864ed6e3d17f81ef401520543ebd31eed9fa0560eed65ce3c7d4b0c1e241d7f29" width=670></A><WBR></CENTER><WBR>
<CENTER>天使坛和吊顶灯也是骸骨点缀的<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105706ee9cd4ef1af2fe0761a44d808c8248a251fee283f5b41ea6bcb2e5cd4b8a21a3a152c9581e59c2c691913a86c38ea98b3b7038a2065d0fd19065af1cc985a5b3a72e0" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105706ee9cd4ef1af2fe0761a44d808c8248a251fee283f5b41ea6bcb2e5cd4b8a21a3a152c9581e59c2c691913a86c38ea98b3b7038a2065d0fd19065af1cc985a5b3a72e0" width=539></A><WBR><BR>圣婴，生与死是彼岸，更是一脉相承的浮屠<BR><WBR></CENTER></DIV></DIV></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105e018a8c126ee8d45577a6c99a558ddd80ef054045a451a06de284b66da00dd4c7985851d9e06621a7a97ff834846376e9ea5d2f69bc95e124ed83d59c9144d51433c7700" target=_blank><IMG height=451 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105e018a8c126ee8d45577a6c99a558ddd80ef054045a451a06de284b66da00dd4c7985851d9e06621a7a97ff834846376e9ea5d2f69bc95e124ed83d59c9144d51433c7700" width=670></A><WBR><BR>教堂顶部装饰<BR><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105b480d924e30c24750714a9fd6c77d558dd8ee393a90d6daf7ef25f3829e9339e74afd002deb84adc57d9217430c7202fe1fd010ff06930eec9dbaf89db209de3ac9be448" target=_blank><IMG height=451 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105b480d924e30c24750714a9fd6c77d558dd8ee393a90d6daf7ef25f3829e9339e74afd002deb84adc57d9217430c7202fe1fd010ff06930eec9dbaf89db209de3ac9be448" width=670></A><WBR><BR>另一个角度看祭台<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1055638beeff0168d2dacc9eac67159c968e97f3e9a950abae1ff39791640d2fb92ed2fa600bc217534b63bd8314700101105ede9136dcccf809a1573cbbb2709fb44a1220b" target=_blank><IMG height=451 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1055638beeff0168d2dacc9eac67159c968e97f3e9a950abae1ff39791640d2fb92ed2fa600bc217534b63bd8314700101105ede9136dcccf809a1573cbbb2709fb44a1220b" width=670></A><WBR><BR>设计师RINT很有意思，他甚至将自己的名字和教堂的建造年月也用这种匪夷所思的方式表达了出来。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105392862c787a14cc07582c4206f5802c0d62450398fc29caa19f28f5bcdc143e3c4add139e5b5d11e93a3cea85b1f0abf1dc02cc616a2fbcbf1d7013b57f9cca02117ee70" target=_blank><IMG height=451 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105392862c787a14cc07582c4206f5802c0d62450398fc29caa19f28f5bcdc143e3c4add139e5b5d11e93a3cea85b1f0abf1dc02cc616a2fbcbf1d7013b57f9cca02117ee70" width=670></A><WBR><BR>这是教堂口的小卖部。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105b247bb3a4bb717b3af4d9bcf434f5a9963109d81a6bbbf673f5918fc80462ccee6f69d5c631aaa037b5db80aa5f353e01e59faa28a5253f5af0232cc70f6c6acad03ed98" target=_blank><IMG height=455 src="http://b20.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c105b247bb3a4bb717b3af4d9bcf434f5a9963109d81a6bbbf673f5918fc80462ccee6f69d5c631aaa037b5db80aa5f353e01e59faa28a5253f5af0232cc70f6c6acad03ed98" width=670></A><WBR><BR>正文里提到的圣芭芭拉教堂，我个人觉得最美的哥特教堂。<BR><WBR><A href="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1057ec1170a3e5e6ad0314c45593228e21cc321ffa645e41bc4ee211ff04df20d3bf3f7bd3e5b393603b818618d76bb60842f236fc649f3d51eda782ada03bb0af5806f3c31" target=_blank><IMG height=800 src="http://b21.photo.store.qq.com/http_imgload.cgi?/rurl4_b=661af88943ed8bedc5ca1fa93d25c1057ec1170a3e5e6ad0314c45593228e21cc321ffa645e41bc4ee211ff04df20d3bf3f7bd3e5b393603b818618d76bb60842f236fc649f3d51eda782ada03bb0af5806f3c31" width=539></A><WBR><BR>最后一张，在昆特拉霍拉的小餐馆里，喝到了最新鲜的黑啤，捷克的黑啤，无疑是世界上最好的。如果你实在觉得人骨教堂超越了你的审美极限，那么。。喝酒吧
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